Like the Mataro aficionados of Dirty & Rowdy, Bedrock seems dead set on exploring every plot of old-vine Zinfandel no matter what form it takes, and this is a very different take.
From the Esola Vineyard in Amador County, planted on granite at 1,600 feet, this is a highly distinctive, aromatic Zinfandel. A semi-transparent purple, it gave up little for an hour. Classic Zin notes, such as baking spice, did emerge but the fruit veered towards the Mourvedre realm with tart wild strawberries, rhubarb, cooler rocky tones, and bay. I would certainly have pegged this for a Mataro blend, or something from Central Italy perhaps, but not Zinfandel. The palate was racy and electric, mellowing only with air and food and it delivered tart cranberry and strawberry flavors with a short snappy finish. Delightfully intriguing in its way, it will reward a few more years of patience for the acidity to cool down and aromas to find some lift. At the moment you have to work for it. Those seeking fuller riper Zinfandel flavor and texture will be disappointed, but it succeeds on its own merits.