Bedrock Wine Co North Coast Syrah 2014

The 2014 Bedrock Wine Co. North Coast Syrah is a complex, brooding red wine and a ridiculous value.

Quite a bit richer at this stage than the 2013 was 5 months ago but still a great dark, brooding, complex young Syrah (co-fermented with a drop of Viognier). This one is inky black with purple reflection. The nose is viognier forward (so some surprising tropical notes), then blackberry and olive, with pronounced salinity and smoke. The palate is rich and smooth with rough tannin that smoothed out over time with air. I rarely go for the big jam packed style, but this has enough rough edges and complexity to keep most drinkers happy, and will age well too.


Price ~24$

Cellar Rating- **3-10 years

Food pairing – Rich, hearty braises, pork roasts with darker sauces, anything smokey or salty to help compete with the density of flavor here.

Oregon 2013 Pinot Noir, a World Apart

I wanted to take some time to look at just one producer (my current favorite) making Pinot Noir in Oregon, Big Table Farm. The 2013 vintage was a distinctive one due to an unfortunate bout of rain that divided the vintage between those who picked before the rain and those who picked after.

Oregon Pinot Noir of 2013: Big Table Farm

I wanted to take some time to look at just one producer (my current favorite) making Pinot Noir in Oregon. The 2013 vintage was a distinctive one due to an unfortunate bout of rain that divided the vintage between those who picked before the rain and those who picked after. Those who picked early got away technically unscathed, but had to deal with a high-acid, low brix crop that challenged the typical trend in the US market, even in Burgundian OR.

Big Table Farm seemed up to the task, with all three of today’s selections coming in at less than 12% abv! That’s damn low, but the wines were savory, graceful, and seductive. All three were vinified in a mix of used and new french oak.


2013 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

Fermented with whole clusters (giving a more wild, rustic, and green quality). Right out of the bottle it was mono-tone cherry cola on the nose and simple and austere on the palate


with a bitter finish. But after a couple of hours and a great rich braise to pair along side, it flourished in the manner I had hoped for

Very light in color, nose of cherry cola, spice box and a nice rocky quality. Also some garden herbs, all soft and sweet. Beautifully seductive aromatics. Lean and clean on the palate with a surprisingly long spicy finish. Great old world style. Time air and food are needed.



2013 Cattrall Brothers Vineyard Pinot Noirbtfcb13

Very pale, red rose color, the nose is sweet rosewater to start, then very delicate notes of rhubarb, white pepper, fennel, and smoke as it opened. The acidity and finish are both quite light to me, but it paired well with seared salmon and sauteed leeks. I have no idea how it would stand up to (or improve with) age, it is just so delicate. Probably the most complete and whole wine of the three.

11.2% abv. Planted with organically farmed Wadensville clone (own-rooted) on a high and cool site in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA

2013 Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir


Farmed on the Coats and Whitney Vineyards in the Y-C AVA. I opened, then tossed it in the fridge fBig Table Farm Willamette Pinot Noiror a bit to bring it down to cellar temp, which really coaxed some of the aromas out. A very pretty pale garnet, with aromas sweet cherry liqueur, rose water, mint & garden herbs, a hint of wet earth.
Palate is supple and smooth, though with a bit of a watery impression on the mid palate. Some tannin builds up with air but overall the wine is all delicate and pretty and subtle.
11.8% abv. Pommard and Wadensville clones, some whole cluster fermentation.


The Two Faces of California Zinfandel

Zinfandel has come a long long way since its unfortunate heyday in the 1970’s and 80’s. Those old enough to remember trying white zinfandel (or like me bold enough to go looking, for science sake) Might find it hard to believe such an insipid cloying bottle of juice ever was so popular.

While the overall market hasn’t changed quite as much as I would like (light and sweet still drives a colossal amount of volume the whole world over), the fine wine industry has seen Zinfandel return to grace.

Zinfandel has come so far that it occupies a leading role in some of the current market’s trendiest bottlings. Wineries like Bedrock, Ridge, Turley, and Carlisle offer extraordinary high quality Zinfandel based blends from old vine heritage sources.  These extra old vine field blends don’t just offer something tasty and different, they offer a rich backstory. The history (and field blend) that is unique to every vineyard gives the wines inimitable personality. This might be the most appealing factor to a younger demographic that looks for an intimate story and a connection with the wine, rather than just reputation and awards.

The other side of Zinfandel is one that still sticks to traditional modes of selecting and blending grapes from their own estate, rather than from historical vineyards with countless varieties. Both Older wineries like A. Rafanelli, or newer(ish) ventures like Brown Estate have applied more modern sensibilities to their straight Zinfandel bottlings.

Both sides of modern Zin have eschewed its past representations, either the pale sweet blush, or the cloying jam jar reds.

* A Note on Aging *  Zinfandel was historically picked later in the season to maximize development of the sugar (or because farmers didn’t know any better). That made pretty unfit for aging. The selections I tasted below run the gamut for age-ability. Bedrocks wines need the longest, minimum 5 years, probably up to 15, Ridge and Carlisle(not featured) should be held for 3-5 years. A. Rafanelli too is balanced enough for a 3-5 year window from vintage (up to 10), and Brown Estate is the best for short-medium term drinking (1-5 years). All of these wines follow the modern trend of crafting for both immediate term and long-term enjoyment, so you can’t really screw it up!



Bedrock is probably the hottest new winery in California, founded by Ravenswood scion Morgan Twain-Peterson, his family connections have no doubt contributed to the range of historical vineyards he has access to. As a result there is some overlap between Bedrock, Ridge, and others who source from similar vineyards. Unlike Ridge, which tends to buy a more Zin heavy allotment, Bedrocks blends are more diverse.


2013 Bedrock WIne Co. The Bedrock Heritage

Bedrock Heritage Wine 2013

Roughly 40% Zinfandel, 30% Carignane, and the last 30% the mixed blacks. Planted first in the 1890s, owned by Hearst at one point.
Gritty tannin, velvety fruit, with loads of different herbal and spice quality (oh hi graham cracker, is Zinfandel home?). A little less open on the nose then the others, but feels like it will do brilliantly in 10 years or so. What I loved about this one is it didn’t hit me over the head with Zinfandel spice, and the fruit quality (while still very primary) was brambly with depth and complexity. (45$) *Ridge also sources from this vineyard for their Hooker Creek bottle.


2013 Bedrock Wine Co.Evangelho Vineyard

60% Zinfandel, 18% Carignane and the rest Mourvèdre, Palomino and Mission. Just inland from the Sacramento Delta, planted on 40ft deep sand bank, the vines were planted in the 1890s on their own root-stock. Phylloxera wasn’t a concern due to the high-silica content of the earth. The high winds, warm weather, and sandy soil make for a remarkable and unique wine. Vibrant and coiled, this blend showcasing strong minerality and acid. Red fruit and baking spice with a streak of saline. (38$)


Ridge has a lot of well deserved fame for their historic Cabernet from Monte Bello, but their large assortment of Zin blends from historic vineyards is a real accomplishment. All of their heritage blends are worth trying, though I chose the most freely available for this article.

2013 Ridge Geyserville

73% zinfandel, 17% carignane, 9% petite sirah, and 1% matar. A real benchmark wine for the style. Robust, and structured. Even with the chill I put on it the aromas sang from the glass. Typical baking spice, some rocky quality and and tight core of black brambly fruits. The fruit definitely was reluctant to come out and I imagine a few years will bring this exceptional wine into balance. On the palate the minerality is perfect, with salinity and slate adding some real complexity. Food friendly acidity, but softish tannin. (37$)


2012 A. Rafanelli ZinfandelA. Rafanelli 2012

Labeled as Zinfandel but I was told it had a small amount of petite sirah blended in as well. This wine screams old school California with its inky red color, and supple texture. Unapologetic influence of french oak (vanilla cream) merge with lush red berry fruits on the nose and palate. Some herbal notes of Bay and garden herbs came with time in the glass. Needs another couple years to shine I feel, but just hitting its window. The 2013 I tried just recently will need much more time as the oak is unbalanced and generally its tight and unyielding. (38$)

*I should note that I also tried a 2004 bought online, just about a year ago. While over the hill, it was only just so and still had some beautiful herbal and textural elements. Just to prove that a wine like this can absolutely make 10 years in more structured vintages.


2012 Brown Estate (Napa Valley) Zinfandel

While this label was founded in the mid 90’s, their style isn’t quite on the cutting edge. Rich full bodied purple and black fruit, this wine was soft and luxurious, yet the high alcohol doesn’t show one bit, and the powerful quality of the fruit doesn’t unbalance the wine. I’d still prefer to leave it for another year to mellow that fruit however. If the tendency of modern wine towards higher acid frustrates you, Brown Estate offers of wonderful example of a more mainstream style done well, with balance and class. (40$)